• Manaslu’s Popularity: Despite fewer permits, Manaslu has emerged as a leading autumn climbing destination, with more than 700 people attempting the summit in 2024.
  • Rising Costs: Cho Oyu’s permit fees have skyrocketed to $45,000, making it as expensive as Mount Everest.
  • Permit Issues in Nepal: Recent delays in flight permits and local concerns have caused disruptions in rescues, especially in Manaslu’s Samagaon.
  • Acclimatization Mistakes: Ignoring the need for rest and acclimatization remains a common error, leading to preventable rescues.
  • Stable Autumn Weather: Weather conditions are generally favorable in the post-monsoon season, with dry conditions and minimal precipitation, though temperatures are colder than in spring.

The autumn 2024 Himalayan climbing season showcases a range of trends and challenges for mountaineers and guides alike. Climbing expert Alan Arnette observed that Manaslu had fewer foreign permits issued but still has emerged as the “Autumn Everest” with hundreds of climbers. “Early reports, however, say the mountain doesn’t feel crowded.”

According to experts like Gordon Janow, the director of programs for Alpine Ascents, “commercial climbs are maintaining regular numbers, though Cho Oyu Peak has seen a surge in costs and regulations, making it as expensive as Mount Everest.”

Lukas Furtenbach, owner of Furtenbach Adventures based in Innsbruck, Austria, and a Global Rescue Safe Travel Partner, notes fewer permits for Manaslu due to alternatives like Cho Oyu Peak being more appealing after Tibet reopened.

 

Manaslu Gains Mountaineering Popularity

The ongoing popularity of Manaslu, which has seen 300 permits issued, mirrors Mount Everest’s numbers, with hundreds of climbers attempting the peak each season. But Dan Stretch, a Global Rescue Operations Manager who has coordinated hundreds of evacuations and crisis response operations in Nepal, highlighted that recent evacuations and local delays in flight permits in Samagaon have added complexities to rescues, especially as locals raise concerns about foreigners getting priority over them in the process.

Arnette corroborates this trend, pointing out that Manaslu has become a popular autumn destination despite fewer permits being issued than in past years. Permit fees and restrictions have also impacted Cho Oyu, with additional regulations requiring climbers to summit progressively higher peaks, adding to the challenge. As Arnette noted, the costs for Cho Oyu have risen sharply, now reaching $45K.

 

Route Conditions and Permit Challenges for Mountaineers Interested in Manaslu

Route conditions this autumn seem favorable for climbers. According to Furtenbach, lower sections of Manaslu are affected by melting, leading to crevasses and steep seracs, which may pose challenges. Still, the routes are generally considered safe, with no significant reported permit issues.

Stretch emphasized the stable weather and favorable climbing conditions, with minimal landslides or avalanches during this post-monsoon season. As colder weather approaches in December, however, the number of climbers attempting high-altitude climbs is expected to decrease.

 

From Mount Everest and Manaslu to K2: Shifting Mountaineer Peak Preferences

Although more mountaineers are assaulting other mountains, Mount Everest remains the most crowded 8,000-meter peak, with climbers continuing to flock to it. “Mount Everest numbers are still increasing every year. Now with both sides open again it helps to spread out people. More people are now climbing other peaks as well. The number of climbers in the Himalayas is increasing,” Furtenbach said.

As Stretch explains, smaller groups may attempt winter climbs on Mount Everest, but the focus has shifted towards trekking to Mount Everest Base Camp in November and December. Climbers seeking alternatives to Mount Everest and Manaslu have options like K2, though even there, the numbers remain relatively low for autumn climbs.

Tom Livingstone, an acclaimed outdoor writer and climber, said climbing Mount Everest via the standard routes “bears no resemblance to actual climbing or mountaineering. “The majority of climbers are trading higher summits for more technical summits. Increased permit fees, crowds, other large teams fixing ropes and using helicopters change these higher mountains into less desirable places.”

 

Mountaineer Weather Considerations in the Himalayas

Weather in the Himalayas during this season is typically stable, with dry conditions and low precipitation, making it conducive to climbing. But temperatures can drop significantly in comparison to the spring season. As Furtenbach noted, while October tends to be dry and stable, it can be colder than in the spring. Stretch added that lower altitudes may feel more comfortable, but the gradual cold increase into December will likely discourage many from high-altitude expeditions.

 

7 Summits and Mount Everest as a “Finale”

For climbers attempting the Seven Summits, most experts agree that Mount Everest should be attempted later in the journey rather than at the beginning. Janow, Furtenbach, and Stretch all recommend building up experience with peaks like Aconcagua before attempting Everest, with Furtenbach emphasizing the importance of having a structured approach to these summits. Arnette provided a suggested order for Seven Summit peak-baggers, listing Mount Everest as the final climb after other high-altitude peaks have been summited.

 

Mistakes Mountaineers Make in Nepal

One of the biggest errors climbers make, according to the experts, is underestimating the importance of acclimatization. “Climbers and trekkers should plan as many rest and acclimatization days as they can on their trip. It’s the difference between an enjoyable expedition and a trip to the hospital,” Stretch said.

Furtenbach added that seeking out the cheapest climbing options often results in unsafe conditions, cautioning that safety in the Himalayas is paramount, and cutting costs can compromise that. Janow said, “lack of technical and self-care skills” is the biggest mistake climbers make.

 

Post-Pandemic Travel Surge

After the pandemic, travelers continue to thrive, and according to Furtenbach, climbing expeditions are seeing increased bookings, albeit on shorter timelines. The demand for adventure travel and high-altitude expeditions appears strong, with many eager to make up for lost travel opportunities during the pandemic.

The autumn 2024 Himalaya climbing season remains dynamic, with Everest and Manaslu continuing to attract large crowds. While conditions appear favorable, challenges such as acclimatization, local permit restrictions, and rising costs for Cho Oyu present hurdles for climbers. With careful planning and consideration of weather and routes, however, the allure of the world’s highest peaks remains as strong as ever.

 

The Global Rescue Commitment

Global Rescue is the leading worldwide rescue resource for mountaineers, climbers and those who love the mountains. Global Rescue is expanding and enhancing its services for this community by increasing our capabilities to provide emergency services in more regions, committing to longer deployments of our medical operations personnel, and extending our in-field rescue operational durations.

Implementing the High-Altitude Evacuation Package and making it available to members 16 years of age and older who travel above 15,000 feet (4,600 meters) during any part of their trip (excluding airplane travel) and who require emergency transport due to injury or illness enables us to continue enhancing our current service capabilities for the climbing and trekking community worldwide.

“High-altitude outdoor activity worldwide is reaching unprecedented heights of curiosity and participation, and Global Rescue’s High-Altitude Evacuation Package supports the expanding interest with longer deployments of medical and rescue operations personnel in more regions,” said mountaineering legend Ed Viesturs.