Article Highlights:

  • At 22,837 feet (6,961 meters), Aconcagua is the tallest peak outside the Himalayas and one of the Seven Summits.
  • Though non-technical, climbing Aconcagua requires endurance, proper acclimatization, and basic mountaineering gear.
  • High-altitude sickness is a serious risk, with numerous helicopter evacuations due to AMS and HAPE.
  • More women are climbing Aconcagua, reflecting a shift in mountaineering demographics.
  • Global Rescue continues to expand emergency evacuation services for climbers facing medical emergencies at high altitudes.

 

Mount Aconcagua, towering at 22,837 feet (6,961 meters), is the highest peak outside the Himalayas and Karakoram ranges. As the tallest mountain in South America, it is one of the prestigious Seven Summits. Climbing Aconcagua is a challenge that attracts mountaineers and trekkers worldwide, eager to push their limits in the high-altitude conditions of the Andes.

While climbing Aconcagua is not a technical ascent, it is far from easy. Trekkers often require crampons and an ice axe to navigate icy sections, and the extreme altitude presents serious risks. Proper acclimatization is essential to a successful summit bid, as altitude sickness can affect even the fittest climbers.

Jed Williamson, a renowned outdoor adventure safety expert and member of the Global Rescue’s Mountain Advisory Council, considers Aconcagua an ideal first high-altitude climb—provided climbers acclimate properly. Despite its accessibility, Aconcagua demands meticulous preparation, fitness, and respect for high-altitude conditions.

 

Aconcagua and the World’s Top Climbers

Ed Viesturs, the only American to have summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000+ meter peaks without supplemental oxygen, conquered Aconcagua alongside local guide Cacho Beiza, who has climbed the mountain over 60 times. Both climbers consider Aconcagua an excellent training ground for those aiming to climb more challenging peaks.

Viesturs and Beiza also recommend several other mountains as good starter peaks before attempting Aconcagua:

  • Mount Baker, Washington, USA (10,000 feet / 3,048 meters): A great alternative to Mount Rainier with less crowding and no permit requirements.
  • Chimborazo, Ecuador (20,548 feet / 6,263 meters): A stunning high-altitude climb in South America.
  • Pico de Orizaba, Mexico (18,491 feet / 5,636 meters): A beautiful yet challenging volcanic ascent.
  • Ixtaccihuatl, Mexico (17,160 feet / 5,230 meters): A dormant volcano offering a rewarding high-altitude experience.

 

Aconcagua: Snowy, Uncrowded, and a Growing Female Presence

Viesturs recently returned from a climb of Aconcagua and observed that post-COVID crowds have diminished, making for a more peaceful experience. Heavy snowfall in January, however, added unexpected difficulties, transforming what is usually a dry hike into an alpine ascent requiring crampons.

Beiza emphasized that, despite being a non-technical climb, Aconcagua is a serious mountain where fitness and endurance are critical. Summit day alone can take 8-12 hours, not including the descent back to high camp.

An exciting trend is the increasing number of female climbers tackling Aconcagua. Beiza noted that half of his recent climbing team consisted of women, with many couples climbing together.

 

Aconcagua: A Test of Resilience and Rescues

While self-sufficiency among climbers is gradually increasing, helicopter rescues remain a reality. Beiza notes that most evacuations occur for legitimate medical emergencies rather than exhaustion or fatigue. One such case involved a 55-year-old climber from the United Kingdom who was evacuated from Plaza de Mulas due to symptoms of pulmonary edema. Global Rescue facilitated an emergency helicopter evacuation, leading to swift medical intervention and recovery.

Several recent high-altitude rescues on Aconcagua highlight the risks associated with extreme elevations.

  • A Canadian climber was airlifted after suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Oxygen therapy stabilized the climber before an emergency helicopter evacuation to Horcones, followed by hospital treatment in Mendoza.
  • A U.S. climber on the Guanacos route experienced AMS and suspected HAPE. A helicopter evacuation was swiftly arranged to transport the climber from Plaza Argentina to Mendoza for overnight hospital observation and treatment.
  • A U.S. climber at Base Camp 3 Guanacos suffered severe HAPE, leading to an urgent helicopter evacuation. The climber was hospitalized in Mendoza, treated for altitude-related complications, and discharged after recovery.
  • A U.S. climber sustained a knee injury at Nido de Cóndores, rendering them unable to continue. Medical staff recommended an immediate helicopter evacuation. After treatment in Mendoza, the climber recovered with crutches and pain management.
  • A Mexican climber at Base Camp 2, Nido de Cóndores, was diagnosed with pulmonary edema and evacuated via helicopter to Mendoza for treatment.
  • Two Australian climbers suffered from severe HAPE. One was evacuated from Plaza de Mulas and another from Valle Hermoso. Both required urgent medical attention, received oxygen therapy and treatment, and were later discharged in stable condition.

 

The Global Rescue Connection

With increasing number of climbers venturing into high-altitude terrain, Global Rescue has expanded its services, including the High-Altitude Evacuation Package for those traveling above 15,000 feet (4,600 meters). This service ensures rapid emergency transport for climbers facing injury or severe altitude sickness. Mountaineering and trekking continue to grow in popularity, making safety and emergency preparedness more critical than ever.

Climbing Aconcagua is a formidable adventure that requires careful preparation, endurance, and respect for high-altitude conditions. While it remains one of the more accessible Seven Summits due to its non-technical nature, the extreme altitude presents a real challenge.

For those looking to climb Aconcagua, it is crucial to prepare for and obtain proper acclimatization, ensure appropriate physical conditioning, and understand the signs and symptoms of altitude-related risks. Whether you are an experienced mountaineer or tackling your first high-altitude peak, Aconcagua offers an unforgettable journey into the heart of the Andes.